| Price : $587.50 | Post Date : Dec 25, 2011 13:28:10Scilogex Rotor KIt With Cover, Fixing Clips And O-Ring: 15000rpm; Holds 12 2mL test tubes; Used With D2012. Scilogex #: 19400001.
Fender Bullet Save You Money! Shopping Bulkhead Electrical Connector
If your Harley is not running the way it should, it might be time to rebuild the carburetor. The fuel to run the Harley runs through the carburetor, mixing with the right amount of air, leaving sediment and particles behind gumming up the inner works of the carburetor. Once the particles are in the carburetor, the bike will not perform as it should. It will run sluggish and possibly not even start. A rebuild kit for the carburetor can be purchased at most motorcycle part supply stores. The process of rebuilding a carburetor is not too difficult. Keep the work area and the carburetor clean while rebuilding. Clean parts as they are removed and installed and reinstalled in the carburetor.
It is a good idea to get the things you will need in place before starting this project. The basic tools needed for rebuilding a carburetor are a screwdriver, the owners manual for your bike and the rebuild kit for your carburetor.
Remove the idle mixture screw. Count the turns it takes to remove the screw, make a note of how many turns it took. Check the throttle plate for wear. Check the plugs in the body of the carburetor for signs of leaking. If there are signs that they are leaking, replace the plugs. There should be no light showing when the carburetor is closed. Replace if necessary.
Clean the idle mixture screw and mark it with a marker just to the tapered part. Replace the screw by screwing it completely into the carburetor. Now remove the screw and check to see if any of the marker has been rubbed off. If it has, use the new idle mixture screw from the kit and discard the old one.
Remove the enrichment plunger nut and spring from the carburetor. Check the tip of the plunger for wear.
Take the screws out of the bowl of the carburetor. Do not remove the cap.
Remove the float pin screw. Locate and remove the float pin, float and needle. Replace if worn with the new parts in the rebuild kit.
Take the seat from the bottom of the carburetor bowl. Install the new seat that is in the rebuild kit.
Check the ejector nozzle for kinks or wear. Remove the old O-ring and install the new nozzle O-ring that is in the rebuild kit.
Clean and check the float for holes. Install a new needle. Place the entire unit back into the bowl. Move all the parts to be sure they move easily.
Turn the bowl over and take out the screws that held the cap in place. Take the balls and O-rings out of the casting.
Replace the ball checks, seats, spring and diaphragm with the new ones supplied in the rebuild kit.
Replace the pump shaft and boot. Install the new bowl gasket and secure with the provided screws.
Reinstall the cables before bolting the carburetor back on the intake manifold.
Position the carburetor with the backing plate and breather assembly and bolt back together.
Replace the idle screw, turning the same number of turns it took to take it out. Start the bike and check the cables. Adjust the idle screw, if necessary, for the proper idle. Take the bike for a test ride to insure all is running smooth.
Lowest Price Exercise Bike Pedal Straps !8!# Rider Boot This Instant Shop Plantronic Cs70
While on an off road trip, Jenny's Jeep began to experience the symptoms of a bad fuel pump. Her jeep would stumble and die at idle. It would only run if the rpms were kept over 1500 and it was low on power. It was also surging as the fuel pump lost pressure. It was making only 20 psi or so and that was simply not enough to keep the fuel from boiling in the hot fuel rail. It was a struggle, but we got her Jeep out of the woods under its own power and got it back to my shop.
Fist, we used the failing fuel pump to pump the remainder of the fuel from the tank. I used my fuel pressure tester attached to the fuel rail test port to pump the fuel into a can. I made a jumper wire and attached it to the fuel pump relay socket to force the pump to run.
Once the tank was empty, I disconnected the lines from the fuel pump assembly and disconnected the wires. I also disconnected the tank vent lines.
Next, I rigged up a lift to support the tank as I lowered it from the Jeep. I then loosened the tank support straps. After lowering the tank a couple of inches I was able to reach above the tank and loosen the filler and vent lines from the tank. I then removed the tank support straps and lowered the tank out of the Jeep.
With the tank out, I stood it up and cleaned the mounting flange for the pump assembly with a wire brush. I used a hammer and screwdriver to move the clamp ring off the pump. Then I carefully removed the pump from the tank taking care not to get dirt in the tank. The filter sock fell off and had to be retrieved with a gripper tool. Often the tapered grommet for the pump assembly will stay in the tank as well. If so, this has to be fished out. This one came out with the pump this time however.
To test the pump, Jenny made up a container for fuel and reconnected the pump to the lines and wires. The last time I worked on this Jeep there was a leak in the line between the pump and the tank outlet. This time however, there was no leak; the pump simply was not making pressure. Cold it would make only 30 psi not the required 48 psi. When the pump got hot it made less pressure. We measured 20 psi when the Jeep was trying to get home the day before.
We then tested the used replacement we had available. It easily made more than enough pressure. And still no leaks. The mounting bracket in this tank has been modified slightly in an off roading mishap so I had to adapt the new pump to fit. After some mixing and matching of parts and some creative routing of the expensive high pressure hose, I got it to fit. Jenny also had to put a wrap or two of Teflon tape on the pump inlet to get the filter sock to stay in place.
I carefully cleaned the pump mounting surface and the O ring. I then set the pump in place and tapped the retaining ring back into position.
We then lifted the tank up into the Jeep. With the tank almost in place I reattached the filler and vent lines. This was the most difficult part of the job by far. Once the lines were reattached, I lifted the tank the rest of the way back up and reinstalled the straps. I actually forgot to tighten the fuel line clamps before driving it. I should have tightened them right after I reinstalled the lines and attached the wires.
We put the fuel back in and ran the pump on the jumper a moment to prime the system and get air out of the lines. When I heard the regulator squeal, I knew the air was being purged. Jenny's Jeep started right up. It stumbled a moment while the computer adapted to having the right pressure at the injectors again but it settled down quickly.
A quick test drive showed it all worked fine. With the exception of the loose clamps on the fuel lines I mentioned earlier. I had to tighten them in the street because I was afraid they might pop off if we drove it back to the shop. Her fuel pressure is back in spec again. Hopefully this pump will last a while. The whole job took about four hours start to finish.
Swagelok produces top of the range Process, Instrumentation and Sanitary Ball Valves, in a range of materials and end connections. The specifications of Swagelok Ball Valves include a Working Pressure of up to 15 000 psig (1034 bar), Temperature adjustments from -65 - 850F (-53 to 454C), Flow Coefficient of up to 130, body Materials in stainless steel, carbon steel, brass, alloy 400, and special alloys, and End Connections sizes of 1/16 to 2 in (3-25mm). If necessary, Swagelok offers Swagelok Ball Valves manufactured or configured to the special needs of your applications.
A Ball Valve, in the simplest terms, is a quarter turn valve used for controlling flow. It consists of a valve with a spherical disc - the sphere has a hole or port in the middle, and when this is in line with both ends of the valve, it creates a passageway so that the valve is open and flow can occur. When the ball or sphere is positioned with the hole or port perpendicular to the passageway, the passage is closed and fluid cannot pass through. Ball Valves are used where flow needs to be completely shut off - for instance in the shut-off valve for your water main line. Swagelok Valves are designed to be used in a fully open or fully closed position. Ball Valves are not recommended for use where fine control of the valve is needed.
Ball Valves have many advantages over other types of valves. They are easy to use, easy to maintain and can regulate high-pressure, high-volume, and high flow of temperature. Because they are uncomplicated, sturdy, relatively low in price, Ball Valves tend to lend themselves to a long service life. Swagelok produces a full catalogue of all major Valves. Swagelok One-piece Instrumentation Valves have been used in a variety of industries for many years. Both the original Swagelok 40 series and the newer 40G series accommodate a wide range of actuator, flow path and handle options along with easy packaging adjustment while inline. Handle options are available to prevent unintentional valve operation, and Directional Name Plates are available to indicate the direction of flow.
When considering a product, total system design must be taken into account to ensure safe, trouble-free performance. Swagelok General Purpose and Special Application Valves are available in a range of sizes and materials. The Flexing seat design of Swagelok Valves ensure a leak-tight seal in both low and high pressure systems. Swagelok Trunnion Valves feature compact, maximum flow design, low operating torque, 2- or 3- way flow patterns, panel mounting, as well as the availability of pneumatic and electric actuators, which are compact, lightweight and easily mountable. The Trunnion style ball prevents ball blowout and contributes to low operating torque.
Swagelok also offers Alternative Fuel Service (AFS) Ball Valves for high-pressure, high flow applications. Options and accessories to this range include Handle Options, Handle Kits and Locking Brackets. Swagelok can provide complete actuated ball valve assemblies including valves, actuators, sensors, bracket kits, and solenoids. Maintenance Kits are also available and include Seat Seal Kits, and stem and Seat Seal Kits. Swagelok Multipurpose Ball Valves feature O-ring stem seals, directional handles, Spring-loaded PEEK seats, and a stainless steel floating ball which reduces wear and extends cycle life.
Swagelok Medium-Pressure Valves offer innovative stem and end connections seal design which is patent pending. This ensures at full pressure rating throughout the entire operating temperature range, and reduces seal wear. A Positionable Handle with a unique stop disk provides flexibility in component layout, enabling reduced system footprint. Swagelok also offers Stainless Steel Valves for the Sanitary industries, conforming to a wide range of specifications - these products have stood the test of time, and have been relied upon for years. Swagelok Valves are available for every need, and backed by the Swagelok Limited Lifetime Guarantee.
Swirl Lollipops Wholesale Order Hot Water Pressure Washers Buy
|
|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
